Members of the Edmonton section have shared stories of their adventures since the section first met in 1912. Some of the stories are fun, some tell of reaching summits, and some recount near misses and tragedies. We’ve published reports in the ACC gazette and in the Breeze and now on our website. Our Breeze originated as the Mountain Breeze newsletter on paper, mailed out to members and featuring upcoming events and trips and advice on gear and skills.
Fifty years ago, the June 1975 Breeze featured amusing and adventurous reports. The Snow School fun started at a hut built by Edmonton inside the east entrance to Jasper National Park, which was still in use at that time. The group continued up the Icefields Parkway for ice axe arrest and crevasse rescue practice, entertained by a recorder trio at the Beauty Creek Hostel. The next report was an epic climb at Disaster Point, with an errant team of six climbers stranded overnight and wardens called out for the search. Both new and advanced members had opportunities to gain experience that month.
And, in an example of times were different then: members were invited to a meetup on Wednesdays to climb Edmonton’s first bouldering wall, the Groat Road Bridge.
Snow School – May 10 & 11, 1975
Fair weather encouraged a group of enthusiastic novices to gather at the Poco hut Friday night. Saturday morning the crowd descended upon Smittie’s Pancake House in Jasper for breakfast prior to departing for the Ice Fields. The scenic drive south along the Banff Jasper Highway brought us to the Ice Fields Upper Chalet parking lot at about 9:30.
The air was still and not a cloud was to be seen. We spread out across the practice slope just above the parking lot, our faces smeared with glacier cream and zinc oxide paste. Before lunch ice-axe arrests were performed quite convincingly with all manner of grace and style. Numerous entertaining and instructive arrest methods were observed amongst the clicking of camera shutters. Students were flying down the slope sitting down feet first, lying on their backs feet first, on their backs head first, headfirst on their stomachs wearing packs, and tumbling and rolling wearing packs.
All this fun worked up a hearty appetite quenched by a sunny lunch at the parking lot. Full stomachs and faces bearing fresh applications of screen and zinc oxide greeted the afternoon events; belaying techniques in snow. Ice-axe-boot belays, ice-axe belays and the use of belaying plates were demonstrated, practised and tested all very much to the amusement of the few tourists who happened into the parking lot.
After a full day, soggy and red faced, we returned to the Beauty Creek Hostel to be welcomed by a well-earned supper graciously prepared by Lynn and Carol. The evening hut chores were accompanied by the recorder trio of Rick Checkland, Bill McIntosh and Monique Robitaille. The melodious tunes accompanied by the vigorous sounds of wood chopping, window washing and pot scraping was interrupted twice by the natural music of snow avalanching over a cliff on Sunwapta.
Sunday we arose to our second consecutive unbelievably sunny morning. The snow cornice used at last year’s ice school was judged unsuitable and another was located closer to the Upper Chalet parking lot. Morning and part of the afternoon was passed practising crevasse rescue techniques. Marking the Second Annual Snow School Beauty Creek Rock Migration, John Adler returned to Bill McIntosh a stowaway rock found in his pack at lunch. A very pleasant and very practical weekend was had by all. Many thanks to the instructors, instructor’s helper, the cooks, and the trip coordinator.
Moe Larter.
Disaster Point – May 24 & 25, 1975
While the rest of us were having easy days on C2½, Opal Hills or Moro, a group of six intrepids were playing out an epic on Disaster Point. Five of us were even so well organized we managed a soak in the hot springs at the end of the day. However, dinner, dishes and the night came and went with the six still missing. I was getting nervous by 7:00 a.m. having had nightmares exacerbated by the falling rain and fresh snow on the peaks. After breakfast we scanned the hills with binocs with no results and no answers to Mac’s yodel.
By 10 we decided to recce the base of the cliffs but thought we ought to consult the Poco Warden first. The warden contacted Jasper and things really started moving. By noon there were about six Park trucks, 12 Wardens, one tracking dog named Ginger and a helicopter on the way from Banff. Even Cathy, the fire lookout at Consolation Lakes, was searching with her high-powered scope. Two search parties went out and at 13:30 one came back with six intact, and rather sheepish-looking climbers. They had not been lost or hurt, just a bit slow in coming back.
Bruce McKinnon, the warden in charge of the search made some helpful comments on the Parks registration system which we should all take note of:
1. Indicate your route as accurately as possible. (i.e. the W. face of the S. peak, Disaster Point.)
2. If you are doing a difficult route (Louie, Edith) or a long route (Cavell) and are prepared to bivouac, sign out for the following day so unnecessary rescues are avoided.
3. Make sure to include your local phone number, hut, or campsite.
Elizabeth Robertson
Nervous Trip Co-ordinator
p.s. My thanks to everybody, especially Rick, for rescue co-ordination.
Where they were
Six of us went up one of the chimneys on Disaster Point Mountain. Quite an interesting route, difficult enough in certain places. But we didn’t finish it off. We had to bivouac under the falling snow on a relatively small ledge with some of us tied to the rock. At 5:30 the next morning we were starting on our way down and there the sun reappeared.
Reinhard Berg, Carol and Mo Larter, Mike VanHorn and Bill Fisher were there. If you want to know more about our experience just ask Monique.
Thank you very much, everybody who contributed in the search and in the waiting for the late coming back of our party. Experience is gained sometimes at high cost. The summit is often further than you think.
It’s good to know that friends don’t hesitate to bring help to someone who might need it. If I can give some advice, fill in very carefully those little sign-out slips. It will aid the persons who want to help you.
Monique Robitaille.
Bridge Anyone?
Wednesdays about 7:30 at the south end of the Groat Bridge. Five finger exercises on Edmonton’s only available boulder. Excellent for balance and practise climbing on very small holds. Mayfair Pub usually follows.
Original Source
Scanned from The Mountain Breeze, Alpine Club of Canada – Edmonton Section, June 1975.
